General FAQ STICKY

 
Barry Scott
joeaudio Pic3543 Posts
United KingdomGood As New
Music Style Penny Cleaning
7/10/2006 1:22 AM

I'll start the ball rolling - here's an excellent guide to perfecting your kick and bass by Eufex.

 

Kick and Bass Mastering


The first step in getting your bass mix right comes from choosing the right sounds to use in the first place, don't be tempted to try and fix it in the mix. If you want more bass in your track it isn't simply a case of turning up the bass EQ but if you want to make a pigs-ear of it then by all means do.

The Kick.
Years ago the 909 kick was de-rigueur but these days one of those straight out of the box sounds weedier than a gnats fart. Hard dance music is just that, HARD. The kicks need to be huge. How do you go about getting a huge kick? One way is to simply sample somebody else's (naughty) but that isn't being very creative. Over the years there have been literally thousands of different kick drums made and the sound is constantly being refined and reinvented. Whenever you buy a new record or get a new CD, always sample the kick drums to store in your library for later use.

Some may need cleaning up - random noise or cymbals may need to be removed. I'm not going to tell you how to do that because I want to make you think but I will give you a pointer: noise reduction is not the answer on a single kick, it will ruin the sound.

When you come to start writing a new track the first thing you will need to do is create a NEW kick. You already have your huge library of kicks to hand so you can start by getting several kicks that you like the sound of and that you think will fit together and then start experimenting layering those kicks together in various amounts. You may only need to use two or three kicks to get the sound you want. The sound can then be further refined with the use of compression, EQ and distortion or any other effect (careful!).

At this point you are using EQ creatively to alter the sound's character significantly. Extreme boosts don't tend to work well in the bass area, as you will find that you have problems when it comes to the mixdown. Compression can be used to tighten the kick, lengthen the decay or to add pop to the attack; again this is using compression as a creative tool. Always save your layered kicks and make new kicks with those too - your library will constantly grow and your 'depth of sound' will get greater.

The Bass

You've got your kick, now you need a bass to go with it. It's a good idea to just sit in the studio for an afternoon every now and again and program bass sounds on whatever synthesisers you have available, sample them off and store them away for later use - it is much easier to have a library of bass sounds to hand than to try and program a sound that will fit with your kick drum. Again your bass sounds can be layered together to create new ones. You can also significantly change the character of your bass sounds with EQ and/or filtering. Again we are being creative at this point and trying to make the character of the sound how we want it so anything goes.

Mixing the two together

The mixdown is usually the last thing that gets done to a track, after all the programming, writing, arranging etc. Mute everything apart from the kick and the bass (which incidentally must have their own separate mixer channels), you are going to be listening to this for quite some time and at high volume so your neighbours are going to hate you if you aren't sound-proofed. Don't be tempted to try and mix anything else in your track until you have your foundations in place, you will be wasting your time.

There is a minimum of facilities that are required to be able to get that pro sound in the bass on every track that you mix. It can be done with less equipment but much more time needs to be spent when you create the kick and bass sound in the first place (as will become apparent).

An absolute must is a decent pair of monitor speakers, positioned correctly and with you sitting in the correct position. Your room needs to be well damped and you will find from time to time, if you are in a small control room or project studio, that depending on what frequencies are in the sounds you are using different items in the room will buzz or vibrate - you need to damp or shield these so you can hear what is coming from the speakers and nothing else.

Also required is a mixing desk or facility (could be in your PC) where you can group tracks together, a compressor and decent EQ. If you are using an analogue desk you will probably not have enough EQ to do the job and will need to insert extra parametric (preferably) or graphic EQ on both the kick and bass channels.

So, first things first - listen to any hard dance records and you notice that the kick and the bass are at roughly the same volume level. So, presuming that your desk is normalised, solo the kick and adjust the volume so that it is peaking at around +3 to +6 DB on the main output meter (if your mixer goes to +15). You want the maximum amount of volume coming from the kick channel (if you are in software you can set this to slightly below maximum) while leaving enough headroom on the main outputs to fit the rest of your mix in. Why is the kick so loud? We want to get the best signal to noise ratio possible and to use the full bandwidth available on the mixer.

The same process is then done with the bass, solo it and set it to the same (or just slightly less) level on the main meters.

Listen to the two sounds together and note what the main meter is now doing - depending on what parts you have written the output will be moving around somewhat. Ideally you want the volume level in the bass end to be fairly constant otherwise headroom will be used up for no reason and bass 'power' will be lost. Compression needs to be used to smooth the levels out. This has the effect of increasing the average volume whilst using no more headroom. Both the kick and the bass need to be compressed together so the two channels need to be grouped and a compressor placed on the insert of the group. How the compressor is set very much depends on the material and there are several articles on compression out there. A good starting point would be to use 6:1 compression with a fast attack (to let the peaks on the kick to come through) and a release of around 150ms. The amount of gain reduction again depends on the source material.

Depending on the speed of the track the compressors release setting can cause 'pumping' - that is where the overall volume pumps up and down in time with the track. You may want this effect or you may not. If you are going to make the mix pump be very subtle otherwise it just sounds naff. The compressor type will affect the character in the bass end so use the right one - you might want to use a fairly transparent compressor or you might choose to go with a very hard compressor for a more noticeable and aggressive effect. One thing to notice is that on notes where both kick and bass coincide, the volume of the kick will lessen if too much processing is applied.

Volume and compression are now set. Already the bass mix will seem to have much more energy than when you started out. Now comes the difficult part.

EQ'ING THE BASS
Previously creative EQ has been used to make new sounds (art). Now EQ is going to be used in a much more technical way to perfect the bass mix (craft).

A couple of notes before we start, if the bass sound is bass light don't try to simply boost the low end EQ - it makes for a muddy mix. Always remember that if you cut one end of the frequency spectrum comparatively you are boosting the other end. So to boost that bottom end you would roll off the top end and increase the volume level back to where it was previously. EQ cuts sound much better than boosts when mixing down, especially in digital systems.

To get a tight mix you need to be very accurate with your Eqing so be warned, this is going to take time, especially for a start. If it means spending a couple of hours just to EQ the bass then put the work in, the results will be worth it.

Every kick and bass you mix together will be different so there is no point in having or using the same 'magical' EQ settings unless you use the exact same sounds every time. I would recommend sitting down and listening to the bass end in some really well produced tracks. What do you notice? The kick and the bass don't interfere with each other, they sound 'tight' and they don't bloat out the whole mix. They 'sit' right.

Now we are going to get our bass to sound like that. This is where the decent monitors come in, without them you will really struggle to do the job.

CRANK UP THE VOLUME
That's right really crank it up! If you are using near-fields you should be around 3- 4 feet away from the speakers, you need to be monitoring loud enough so that you are really 'inside' the sound. Don't monitor so loud that your ears start to hurt, go numb or ring - if you do you are monitoring too loud to be able to hear things properly and you will be doing yourself some damage. Don't try and mix the bass by monitoring quietly - what you have already probably sounds great when listened to at those volumes. It isn't! This is heavy music that is played loudly in clubs, not on tiny home stereos.

A quick note on 'harmonics'.
All sounds are made from a combination of sine waves. If you want to see the maths behind this look on the web for 'Fourier Analysis'. In any sound there is a fundamental (or root) pitch plus a combination of harmonics. A harmonic is simply a multiple of the root pitch, i.e. the second harmonic is a sine wave at twice the pitch of the fundamental. So a square wave for example is made from a root sine wav plus every other odd harmonic going upwards in diminishing amounts.

Listen carefully to the bass. If it sounds bass light in comparison to the kick, use a high cut EQ (or the lo pass filter in your sampler) to reduce the high frequencies and thus boost the bass. The frequency to cut to depends very much on the bass sound itself. If it is almost pure bass you could get rid of everything above 500-750 HZ. If the bass has a clanky attack you may want to keep that clank in and cut at a higher frequency - 1000 to 2000 Hz maybe. It's all relative to the sounds you are using.

After each EQ change check the volume of the bass on its own again to make sure it is still at the correct level. If it has changed alter the volume accordingly.

You will notice that as you progressively EQ the bass that it will start to sound very different to the sound you started with, this is normal and nothing to worry about, you've just got used to hearing the sound in its' unaltered state. Don't get into the mindset where you can't EQ the sound in a certain way because it makes it different to how it 'should' sound. It has got to sound that way to work with the kick.

EQ'ING THE BASS - CONTINUED
Listen very carefully at the lower end of the frequency spectrum. Does it sound like there is a constant hum or note down there that runs through the notes that are being played. If there is then that is a 'ringing' harmonic - in other word one that isn't needed, all it is doing is using up valuable headroom and bloating the mix out. If you listen again you will also perhaps note that it makes the mix sound too fat and interferes with the kick, frequencies around 110-115 Hz are the usual culprits.

The frequency needs to be isolated and reduced until things sharpen up. The best EQ to use for this is a parametric as specific frequencies can be isolated but a graphic can be used at a pinch. The results will never be as sharp though. You now need to listen elsewhere for harmonics that ring out or whistle - these can be anywhere in the frequency spectrum. You might want to keep one or two of them in there if they are in tune with the bass notes playing (a-la Klub bass) but be careful what you leave. If you leave the wrong harmonics, especially as you start to move into the 200Hz region they will start to interfere with the lower-mids of the sounds in the rest of your mix. Again when you get a handle on where the 'bad' harmonics are, isolate them with a band of parametric EQ and reduce them until they no longer ring out.

So that's the bass Eqed. Well, not quite. The sub end of things needs to be looked at, if there is too much sub in there the mix may sound great on your small speakers but when you play it on something larger you could max out the amps or blow the cones out. A nice little check is to listen to the mix through headphones. For a few seconds crank the headphone volume right up and listen to the kick drum - it will be making the headphones buzz quite a lot. Now listen to the bass, if it's making the headphones buzz about the same amount then things are OK in the sub department. If it's REALLY making the headphones buzz then you have too much sub on the bass. Another check is to look and see how much the bass sound makes your speaker cones flap in comparison to the kick - if it looks like your cones are about to blow with the power then, again there is too much sub in there. If your speakers are larger or you have a sub box then you are laughing. I bet the neighbours love you! A low shelf at 49Hz with about 2-3 DB of reduction will suffice if you have too much energy in that region.

It's almost there now. It's now a good idea to add an open hi hat, set a rough volume level for it and then listen to see if there are any harmonics that shouldn't be there between the 'real' bass and the hats. If there is, again, using parametric, get hold of those frequencies in the bass and EQ them out. That's the bass Eqed.


Now go back to listening to just the kick and the bass. Listen with more of an emphasis on the kick. Mostly you don't need to do any EQ work on the kick but sometimes there will be just the odd harmonic that seems to 'ring' out on top of the kick and the bass. If it's too much and clouds things up, reduce it, again with a parametric.



Along with this article are two samples using the kick and bass from Ravage 4 'Resident 4 President' so you can hear before and afterwards. Please "RIGHT CLICK and SAVE AS" to download the sample.

Unprocessed Sample
Processed Sample

The EQ settings on this example were as follows:
Bass
Lo Shelf @ 49Hz 2.5db cut
Parametric @ 112Hz 10.4db cut Q on max
Parametric @ 279 Hz 2.5db cut Q on max
Hi Cut at 1500Hz
Kick
No EQ used

Compressor settings:
Ratio 7:1
Attack 10ms
Release 142 ms
Threshold -28db

If you apply these EQ setting one at a time to the un-EQed sample you will be able to hear the 'ringing' harmonics in the bass (remember in real life you would be Eqing the kick and the bass separately)

And that is it. Job done. The track should now have a tight and punchy bottom end that will rock on any sound system. There are now just the other 50 sounds to sort out.

AUTHOR - Eufex - http://www.eufex.co.uk

Eufex is widely regarded to be in the 'super league' of hard dance producers, his own productions have appeared on over 20 labels including Nukeluz, Ravage and Vicious Circle, he Djs throughout the UK and has engineered albums for Storm and Sundiisential amongst others

 

Barry Scott
joeaudio Pic3543 Posts
United KingdomGood As New
Music Style Penny Cleaning
7/10/2006 1:25 AM

Another tutorial I found:

 

how to get that massive dance sound

It's quite evident from surfing around the web that many musicians are making dance music. And a common concern amongst these musicians is that their tracks don't sound as big, loud, and punchy as tracks by their favourite artists. Though many forum participants appear to believe that there is a single reason for this, such as the model of compressor they're using, the real answer is actually a combination of factors. If you're going to get your music sounding as loud and punchy as possible, you have to look at the sound sources themselves, the use of processing and effects, and the way in which the track is mastered.

Fixing It In The Arrangement

Many problems with a track's apparent size can be traced back to the arrangement, and problems such as these aren't easy to solve if you leave them until the mixdown stage. For a start, it's worth realising that creating a 'big' track is about having tonal contrast, so it's no use combining big kick and bass sounds with big snare drums, big pianos, big pads and big vocals. Each instrument you add to a mix will wrest a portion of the available headroom and bandwidth from each of the other instruments, making everything a little smaller. If you feel that you want to add another part to make your track more interesting, why not resist this temptation and concentrate on making your existing parts more interesting instead. Your track will almost certainly sound bigger for it.

It's not just how many parts you put into an arrangement that makes a difference to the perceived size of the track, it's also important where you put them, both in the time and frequency domains. For example, it's no accident that many powerful dance tracks alternate a four-on-the-floor kick drum with an off-beat bass sound. These two parts would have to compete for the low-frequency headroom if they occurred together, so programming them to always happen in different sections of the bar means that they can both be mixed much higher in level.

Similarly, it's worth choosing the individual sounds in your arrangement so that they occupy distinct, and separate, regions of the audible frequency spectrum. If you want a bass sound, a rhythm guitar sample and a lead monosynth part to co-exist within your track, it's worth making sure that they occupy different frequency ranges — if not, then experiment with transposing their parts around until you find a combination which balances better.

Finally, the size of a track is best emphasised by comparison. In other words, try to allow for some 'drops' in the arrangement, where a number of parts drop out or become more sparsely programmed — when the full arrangement returns, it'll seem much louder by comparison.

Turning The Bass Up To 11

In the context of dance music, the things most commonly associated with sonic size are the bass sounds. The bass sounds are simply those parts within your arrangement which have low fundamental frequencies, typically between 40 and 150Hz. Obviously, this will normally mean bass synth parts and kick drums within dance music. While it might be tempting to think that simply boosting the low frequencies of a bass or kick drum sound will make it sound big, this isn't necessarily the case — it will all depend on the type of playback system on which your track is heard. For example, a bass sound with a very high-level 40Hz pure tone might threaten to part you from your recently ingested curry when played over a high-power club PA system, but it will be virtually inaudible on most domestic stereo systems, as these roll off quite sharply below 80Hz or so. To make a bass sound seem loud on a system with limited low-frequency response, it will need to contain harmonics above the fundamental frequency that can be reproduced more effectively. It is for this reason that many strong dance bass sounds rely on square and sawtooth waves, both of which have considerable frequency content above the fundamental. Similarly, a kick drum will require some higher-frequency element if its attack is to be discernible on a domestic playback system. On the other hand, if you choose a bass sound that is too harmonically rich, it may take up too much space in the mix unless you keep the bass line very sparse, so filtering some of the top end out of a harmonically rich bass sound at the mixing stage can also help.



The waveforms of two different real kick-drum sounds are shown above. Notice how their level envelopes decay comparatively quickly.

Creating a more harmonically rich bass sound from a bland one can simply be a case of firmly applying some EQ, but there are also other ways to give a bass sound more high-frequency clout. Perhaps the best of these is to apply some sort of distortion to it — not only does this make the sound richer in harmonics, it also capitalises on the psychoacoustic effect whereby distorted sounds are interpreted as being louder than undistorted sounds at a similar level.

There are plenty of ways in which you can create distortion. Most multi-effects processors provide distortion algorithms, and there are also numerous software plug-ins available. However, no two types of distortion will be the same, so it's worth really hunting around for the types of distortion which suit you. For a start, don't disregard cheap guitar pedals, or even the more expensive physical modelling preamps that are there on the market. And why restrict yourself to something that's meant to distort? A little too much level fed into a recorder, preamp or converter can create unique distortion sounds which might be ideal. Sampling your bass sound at a reduced bit-depth might even do the trick, increasing the level of quantisation distortion, though the resultant grunge won't be nearly as musical as analogue distortion — not that that has ever stopped anyone!

If you're interested in pursing the subject of controlled distortion further, it's worth realising that distortion can also be applied in a frequency-selective manner by certain processors and plug-ins. One example of such an algorithm is Steinberg's Quadrafuzz plug-in. As its name suggests, this virtual gadget splits the audio spectrum into four separate frequency bands and treats each separately before recombining the results. The outcome is a far less messy distortion than you'd expect from a regular fuzz device, and it also has an additional benefit. Because it increases the average signal level, it can make loops, drum sounds, bass sounds or even complete submixes sound very big and exciting.

If the distortion you're using is extreme, such as that produced from overloading an A-D converter, the top end can get quite ugly, though this is, admittedly, often useful at an artistic level. By all means wield your high-frequency EQ to sculpt the distortion sound — I find that a variable-frequency 12dB/octave high-frequency shelving filter is usually the most useful here. Alternatively, a speaker simulator intended for guitar use will usually also be very effective for smoothing things out.

Loud, Strong & Very, Very Long...

In addition to its harmonic content, the subjective loudness of a percussive sound is closely related to its level envelope: how long the sound lasts and how the level decays during that time. In your school physics class you may have learned that energy is simply power multiplied by time. This means that a bass sound with a piano-style envelope is likely to sound subjectively weaker than one that continues at or near full volume for the duration of the note. Changing the envelope of your bass sound, by delving into the envelope menus of your synth or sampler, can therefore help beef up the sound without making the note any longer. This effect can also be achieved within a sampler by moving sample start- and end-points a little further in than might seem natural. In fact, if you edit in the middle of a waveform, the momentary burst of distortion this creates can help the sound become more punchy.



The level envelopes of the electronic kick-drum waveforms below, by comparison, decay far less rapidly, and this lends them a power which accounts for their popularity in much dance music.

Obviously, in many cases there are no envelope controls available to tweak, and this is where compressors can really help out, once again bringing up low-level detail to create better sustain and therefore a more powerful overall sound. This is especially applicable with drum sounds, the envelopes of which usually start with a very loud transient before quickly dropping away to silence. If you use a compressor to push down the level of the transient attack, you can then increase the overall level of the sound to make the subsequent decay sound louder relative to the attack. For example, if you were to compress the peak by 10dB, you could bring up the overall level by 10dB without changing the maximum signal level. The result would almost certainly seem louder, as the overall sound would have more energy than before.

Obviously, to make the above technique work effectively, the compressor needs to have a pretty fast release time, in order to allow the gain to bounce back up as soon as the sound's attack transient is over. Though using fast release times can often result in audible gain pumping, the human ear tends to associate this with loudness, so using this effect creatively shouldn't cause problems — as long as you don't overdo it! Some compressors pump more obviously than others, so it's worth experimenting with different ones if you can. However, don't worry if you don't have much choice — most fairly decent compressors should be able to get you close to the sound you're after.

Engineers often seem to swear by particular makes of compressor for bass, particularly when it comes to making things sound larger than life, and there is something to be said for this view. Different gain elements, circuit designs and amplification topologies all have different sonic signatures, some of which are more suitable for bass sounds than others. However, while choosing a 'name' compressor associated with this type of production will often get you better results, spending a lot of money on one will probably make a much smaller difference than you might imagine.

If you're not getting what you're after from a normal compressor, particularly when working with percussive sounds, you might also consider looking at a more specialised dynamics processor, such as SPL's Transient Designer or the envelope compression mode of TC Electronic's Triple•C, both of which are worth a careful look if you're seriously into dance music of any kind. The SPL unit has two control knobs, which allow the levels of the attack and release phases of percussive sounds to be adjusted relative to the overall envelope. The process works independently of level, so there's no threshold to set up, and it works on complete loops as well as on individual hits. The TC Electronic envelope compression is very similar, except that it requires a level threshold to be set and it allows attack and release times to be specified.

Such devices can also be used to add punch and sustain to bass sounds, especially if individual notes are quite short. In fact, the SPL unit can even be used to create a rather nice subtle distortion on low bass sounds, as it begins to process individual cycles of the sound's waveform, and this can also boost the perceived size of the sound.

 

Putting On Layers

 

 




Acoustic kick drum (top) layered with an electronic kick (middle), compressed to boost its decay, produces the lower waveform.

Distortion and dynamics processing are both very powerful tools within dance music styles, but they share one limitation: they both merely respond to the qualities of the raw sound which they are processing. If you find that no amount of processing is proving successful for your mix, it's probably time you reassessed the sound itself. Fortunately, given that most dance musicians run MIDI instruments live, this is not a big problem, because sounds can be layered to produce the desired result, simply by copying the relevant MIDI track and rerouting it.

If your bass sound is lacking something, a good first course of action is to double its part with a synth patch which is very close to being a pure sine wave. While this is playing, experiment with your sequencer's transpose control and with the level of this sine wave part, to see if there are any frequency-response 'holes' which might benefit from being filled in. Don't automatically use such a sine wave as a sub-bass sound, because it can be really useful elsewhere as well, but if you do then make sure also to experiment with the exact timing of the sine wave part for the best results — most sequencers will allow you to do this with a non-destructive delay parameter. If you're just wanting to add sub-bass, you might also consider using one of the sub-harmonic processes available, such as the Aphex Aural Exciter's Big Bottom function.

Another sound which you might consider layering with you bass parts is a higher-pitched distorted guitar patch — a GM one will often do — but mixed low or reduced to a short duration. In this way you can often beef up the sound without making it seem like it's comprised of two separate layers. Picked guitar sounds can also be useful for increasing the punch of basses, particularly if the guitar sound is quickly muted — in general it is often worth making any high-frequency layer slightly less sustained than the bass sound itself. Why not also experiment with putting such a sound at the end of every bass note, as well as at the beginning? This makes the envelope's release appear more abrupt and can therefore make the sound appear more powerful.

Kick drums can also benefit from a bit of creative layering, particularly if you want to use samples of real drum kits within a dance context. While real drum sounds often have just the character you're after, they rarely have the sheer power that is expected of dance sounds. For this reason, layering more powerful electronic sounds below acoustic ones can provide the best of both worlds. Mixing in the attack phase of, say, a TR808 kick drum sample with your acoustic kick drum can really help it cut through, for example. On the other hand, if you heavily compress the electronic kick sound before mixing it in, this will boost the decay portion of the combined sound's level envelope, and could therefore make it seem more powerful.

 

Going Large With Effects

Obviously, when adding effects in dance music, anything goes on an artistic level. However, a number of effects also have the potential to increase the apparent size of a track. For example, stereo modulation effects such as chorus, flanging and phasing can help increase the stereo width of sounds, making them appear somehow larger. However, there is also a tendency for such effects to rob a sound of its impact if they are overused. What's more, heavy modulation-effect treatments also introduce pronounced frequency-response notches which are capable of emasculating otherwise beefy bass sounds — if you want to use a modulation effect on your bass sounds, it is therefore a good move to experiment with filtering out the low frequencies from the effect return. Stereo-width treatments, such as those offered by the SPL Stereo Vitalizer series and the Behringer Edison, can also be useful in a similar way for increasing the apparent expanse of sounds.

Static flanging and phasing (effectively just stereo delays with times below a couple of milliseconds) can also be useful for increasing stereo width, particularly if these delays can also be pitch-shifted. Similar stereo width enhancement can also be added using a multitap delay, early reflections, or ambience program, as long as you bear in mind that this might also start to push the sound towards the back of the mix.

Delay lines are extremely popular for making tracks appear more impressive, giving the impression that the sound is filling some cavernous venue or massive arena. However, the problem with using delays is that they also appear to distance the track from the listener, which can make individual instruments seem less immediate. This distancing can be made less pronounced, however, if the delays are significantly distinct from the original sound. Band-limiting of the effect return can be particularly useful here, though you could also try feeding the delay line's output to a modulation or reverb effect, to distance the echoes further with relation to the source sound. Naturally, you could also turn down either the delay's feedback level or the fader on the effects return channel — however, heavy delays are characteristic of many dance styles, so this may not be an option for you.

Another potentially problematic side-effect of using delay is that it increases the overall level of the track, and that this overall level will therefore need to be lowered to remain within the available headroom of the recording medium to which you're mixing down. This can be especially difficult to deal with if the delays are tempo-sync'ed, as the delays are often then masked behind the beat — if they are faded up enough to be clearly audible, they can really eat into your available headroom. One way around this problem is to experiment with the more unusual tempo-sync'ed delays. If, for example, you use triplet divisions (rather than straight quarters, eighths and sixteenths), this will not only cause the delays to become more audible by avoiding the main beats, it might also make the track more rhythmically interesting — just ask William Orbit...

When working within dance styles, you should be careful with how you use reverb, as using too much of it can really reduce the impact of a track — outside the trance style, at least, where vocals and pads are often treated to cavernous reverbs! If you feel that your mix isn't really knitting together well enough or that the high-frequency elements seem a little dead, then try to solve these problems using delays, early reflections programs and ambience if you can. In fact, you can often shove a whole mix through a good ambience program if it's not working, though this is much less likely to work with a cheapo reverb plug-in.

Processing The Mix Buss

Though the above technique can sometimes work wonders, as a general rule, it's worth avoiding any processing of your complete mix if you can avoid it — such processing is best left until the mastering stage. One notable exception to this is using a full-band compressor on the mix buss to get a particular sound — the subjective balance of a mix can sometimes change quite noticeably, so this is best done during the mixdown, so you hear the effect it produces. However, even in this case, it's best to tread with caution.

 

EQ'ing For Size

 

 

A carefully constructed arrangement will usually avoid conflicts between sounds, so there can often be very little left to do at mixdown in terms of equalisation. However, if there are any remaining problems, then it can often be useful to bracket any troublesome sounds with EQ to prevent them trampling on each other.

Even though so many samples and synth sounds seem to sound great straight out of the box, you will still sometimes need to fine tune the tone of individual sounds. Bear in mind while doing this, though, that it's safer to cut than to boost, especially where narrow frequency bands need treating, and too much boost using a less-than-excellent EQ can make sounds appear unfocused, phasey or disaccociated with a mix. While maintaining a natural sound isn't usually a priority with dance music, the last thing you want is to lose impact. If you are not sure which frequency needs treatment, try applying a fair degree of boost and then sweeping the frequency control — once you've found the relevant area, you can return to the cut/boost control and set it to a more suitable position. But above all, whenever you decide to use equalisation, try to do so within the context of your mix, rather than with the sound in question soloed.

 

Mix buss equalisation in particular is easy to abuse, and enhancement processes (such as those offered in stand-alone units by Aphex, SPL, BBE and Behringer), while often very useful, are easy to get used to and overdo. Just remember that you want to avoid doing anything that will get in the way of the mastering process, expecially if you're having your mix mastered commercially.

If you prefer to master your own music, then be sure to use the best monitors you can, as well as constantly comparing your mixes with commercial dance tracks in the same style. I would advise keeping tonal changes to a minimum, and when mastering dance music I usually find myself confining these to gentle changes at 80Hz and 15kHz, for balancing the bass end and for adding detail respectively.

Multi-band compression is an excellent tool for increasing the energy of a mix without the side-effects of full-band compression, and it can be particularly useful for applying extra compression to the all-important bass end if you feel you're still short of energy there. When I'm mastering dance music for clients, I'll often use a multi-band compressor to apply very low-ratio compression to all three frequency bands (no more than 1.25:1 usually), but with a threshold of around -30dB. I normally aim for no more than about 6dB of overall gain reduction, and this tightens up the sound considerably without destroying the impression of dynamic range.

Dynamic equalisation can also be useful to add weight to bass sounds without upsetting the rest of the balance. To make this work, I apply a little 80Hz boost (around one octave wide) only when the input signal exceeds the threshold, which I set to trigger only on kick drum beats and bass synth sounds. A boost of two or three decibels is often quite sufficient.

Another process that is worth trying at the mastering stage is valve simulation, which can be used to add even more energy to a mix without making it seem obviously distorted. Not only is this available in some of the digital mastering processors, but there are also numerous plug-ins available offering this. Such processing can be particularly powerful if distortion can be added to individual frequency bands in a similar manner to the way the Quadrafuzz plug-in operates — particularly for increasing low-frequency 'bigness'.

Most dance tracks should really have their bass sounds panned to the centre of the mix in order to share the load of reproducing the low frequency energy between the two speakers in a stereo system. However, it can still be worth experimenting at the mastering stage with the stereo spread of different frequency-bands in the mix, if you have the facilities to do this. Not only can the bass be narrowed down for extra power, but the high-end can be widened for a more panoramic and impressive effect.

As a final stage in the mastering signal chain, I generally use a peak limiter to trim off between 3dB and 6dB of peak level, increasing the average mix level accordingly. All that remains then is to listen to your potential master CD on a number of different music systems on which you can imagine your track being played, and at a number of different volumes. For dance music which you want to play in a club, try to persuade someone at your local venue to let you play the track over their PA so that you can hear how it sounds — you could well be very surprised. If you envisage your track appearing both on the radio and in the club, then you might consider doing different versions of your track for these different purposes. You might want masses of sub-bass on a club mix, but this will just be an inaudible waste of headroom on smaller systems. If you filtered out the lowest bass frequencies, you'd be able to increase the perceived volume of the entire track for a radio mix.

Larger Than Life

A lot of the activities involved in music production, and particularly in dance music production, are about creating an illusion. If you've put the above advice into practice, you ought to be well on the way to achieving one element of this subterfuge: the impression of size.

 

 

Barry Scott
joeaudio Pic3543 Posts
United KingdomGood As New
Music Style Penny Cleaning
7/10/2006 2:43 AM

http://www.modcam.com/emusic/

Nice page with a bit of everything!!

Simon Parkes
sjp Pic7723 Posts
WalesRural Nowhere
Music Style Anything but
7/10/2006 1:38 PM
In reply to

http://www.modcam.com/emusic/

Nice page with a bit of everything!!

There are shitloads already within past threads....I hope K goes through some of them to add?

OR

to help him out, if he lets us know when he has the time to add the new menus we can look back for him and bring them to the top of this forum again?

Hows that sound?

biggrin
Equinox
jaytranzmit Pic12649 Posts
United Kingdom
7/10/2006 8:48 PM
LOGIC FAQ'S

Very Helpful -> http://logicfaq.omega-art.com/
Zero
zeromus Pic13275 Posts
CanadaSW6
Music Style d(-_-)b
7/11/2006 12:08 AM
The Secret of the Big Red Button

One of my favourite articles : http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/jul04/articles/synthsecrets.htm

Why there's no substitute for hitting the books thumbsup


The Books

http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/allsynthsecrets.htm

Tons of gearhead synthesis tips on how to make any synth do tons of things. Invaluable and transcendental reading thumbsup
In Vino Veritas
jonnyboy Pic21544 Posts
Australia
7/11/2006 3:00 AM
Jay, any ideas whether K was still interested in the fancy pants version that we were going to do for this - this thread will become way too disjointed and full of crap in the long run if we don't plan it out thumbsup
Equinox
jaytranzmit Pic12649 Posts
United Kingdom
7/11/2006 3:34 AM
I was surprised to see this up today in all honesty, first thing I thought was 2 days & it will be a shambles yawn I'll speak again with Kristian as he was really interested in getting this implemented when we last spoke. Needs a proper drop down navigation layout with locked content to be effective .

In Vino Veritas
jonnyboy Pic21544 Posts
Australia
7/11/2006 4:11 AM
Definitely, the fact that I can't even read it on a white background isn't going to help lol - basically it needs to be a hard coded page rather than a thread as such - might have to wait a week or 2 while I get my new computer, but we'd need at least that long to compile all the reviews and info.
Scuba Steve
loadspeed Pic418 Posts
New Zealand
Music Style baby making music
8/9/2006 12:59 AM
from before:

i would suggest something like this

what computer do i need?

What sequencer should I use?
-cubase
-reason
-logic
-fruityloops
- other



VSTs & patches

monitors

headphones

keyboards

soundcards - what to get and avoiding latency/stuttering

Where can I find the acapella

Where can I get a MIDI?

Where can I find good and/or free samples?

How do I make a good bassline

how do you make a good lead sound

How do I make good kick

How do I EQ my track?

How do I master my track?

where do you post your track for feedback?

Where should I send my track to when finished?
Simon Parkes
sjp Pic7723 Posts
WalesRural Nowhere
Music Style Anything but
8/25/2006 3:39 PM
In reply to
from before:

i would suggest something like this

what computer do i need? - A fuckin fast one with lots of ram and a hard drive thats as big as the computer on star treks USS enterprise!

What sequencer should I use?
-cubase - thumbsup ye man!
-reason - thumbsup good for learning
-logic - thumbsup second in my book laughing
-fruityloops - thumbsdown dont like it personally
- other
to be honest, try them all out if you can until you find one that suits. Understant the basic functions of an Audio/Sequencer package. Learn to play some chords etc... it all helps!


VSTs & patches - whatever you can get ya hands on! or get yourself on the KVR forum and have a look at their full VSTi list.

monitors - flat ones with an amp! - Alesis, M-Audio, Mackie...too many to mention and since its a personal choice you need to evaluate them!

headphones - For recording or just basic monitoring? I wouldnt use headphones for mix downs though

keyboards - 49note? 61note? 88note? what ever you can fit into your room! A USB one with sliders and knobs...Midi controllers that is!

soundcards - what to get and avoiding latency/stuttering - I have a EMU 1212M which uses top Digidesign Protools mastering chips and built in DSP chips for non CPU effects!

Where can I find the acapella - of what? Do a google!

Where can I get a MIDI? Midi what? Do a google!

Where can I find good and/or free samples? GOOGLE!

How do I make a good bassline - Move ya fingers to a beat on the USB/MIDI keyboard!

how do you make a good lead sound - Play around with the filters on a Plug-in VSTi! Sharp, cutting and high in the octaves! Bend it, Modulate it, effect it and treat it as a vocal singing the harmony!

How do I make good kick - sample a decent one, compress it so its punchy! Layer it if you need to fatten the frequency of it.

How do I EQ my track? - Try not to, less is better, only tweak what you need to! If you find that you are trying to BOOST too many frequencies then use the fight sound in the first place!

How do I master my track? - On a good flat pair of monitors, pull back ALL faders and start from scratch! try not to boost the levels too much! if you are then pull it all back and start over! if it happens again, go take a break and come back to it! Good mastering is down to using the least dynamics effects and just good levels! Remember, the Bass on your sysytem aint gonna be like a club! If you boost too much it will sound boomy in a club!

where do you post your track for feedback? - get youself paid for web space, create a site or just upload via FTP to your space and paste the link within the Feedback Forum on BT, you can also use Soundclick or something similar but if its a site that required the listener to always sign up and login then you will lose listeners!

Where should I send my track to when finished? - depends on the track and what you want? There are label owners on here that may like to sign it up? Find out who they are and make sure they know your link is on the feedback forum. If you get a massive response then you should concider emailing it to a radio DJ!

Simon Parkes
sjp Pic7723 Posts
WalesRural Nowhere
Music Style Anything but
9/6/2006 11:39 AM
The Complete Cubase SX3 - the Book

http://www.auxbuss.com/cubase/cubase-sx-tutorial.htm - free PDF download

Fruity Loops Resources:

http://fruity--loops.blogspot.com/2006_04_23_fruity--loops_archive.html


Various Audio tutorials:

http://www.computermusic.co.uk/tutorial/features.asp

Optimise Pc for Audio

http://www.jakeludington.com/ask_jake/20050225_optimize_your_pc_for_audio_and_video.html

www.tascam.com/Products/US-428/W2k_XP_Optimize.pdf

Setting up an Audio PC:

http://www.pcrecording.com/


Mixdown in 5.1 Surround sound:

http://www.warehousestudio.com/site_index_files/surr_sound.html



http://www.tweakheadz.com/surround_sound_studio.htm


All About 5.1 surround Sound:

http://www.5dot1.com/links.html


The Music Industry Resources:

http://bubl.ac.uk/LINK/m/musicindustry.htm

Dance Music Directory:

http://www.trugroovez.com/record-label-a.htm

http://www.offitsface.com/c-labels.html

http://www.djmag.com/links_labels.php

PC Components:

http://www.misco.co.uk/

http://www.ebuyer.com

http://www.dabs.com/

http://www.aria.co.uk/Products.asp

http://www.bigpockets.co.uk/

http://www.microdirect.co.uk/home.aspx

http://www.it-buy.co.uk/

Second Hand Music Equipment:

http://www.soundonsound.com/adverts

Music Equipment:

http://www.dv247.com/

http://www.dolphinmusic.co.uk/

http://www.turnkey.co.uk/web/homeAction.do?dispatch=homePage

http://www.thomann.de/thoiw2_index.html?sn=3481ffd0cfb906bea6a28b429715b52b


Music Equipment Manufacturers:

http://www.electricbluesclub.co.uk/ebcequipment.html

Home Studio Setup:

http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/dec04/articles/studiolayout.htm

http://www.soundonsound.com/search?url=%2Fsearch&Section=6&Subject=79&Summary=Yes

http://www.blueflux.com/bfstudio.htm

Home Studio Acoustics:

http://arts.ucsc.edu/EMS/Music/tech_background/TE-14/teces_14.html


www.auralex.com/literature/budgetacoustics.pdf

http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/setup/acoustics/HomevsStudioAcoustics.html

http://www.ethanwiner.com/acoustics.html


http://www.soundprooffoam.com/Quick_Guide_to_Building_a_Home_Recording_or_Practice_Studio.html

http://www.bothner.co.za/articles/acoustics1.shtml

http://www.petethomas.co.uk/home-soundproofing.html


Mixdown Help:

http://www.recordingfreaks.com/articles

http://www.mio.co.za/article.php?cat=&id=360



More to come soon biggrin
Simon Parkes
sjp Pic7723 Posts
WalesRural Nowhere
Music Style Anything but
9/11/2006 11:59 AM
Old Synth Manuals / Service Manuals

HERE
Jon
logic7heaven Pic2169 Posts
United Kingdom
Music Style Tech-Trance
10/11/2006 12:13 PM

Here you go some nice tasty little synths and fx for free with out the music police getting ya 

http://www.infinite-dimensions.co.uk/free_vsti_soft_synth.php

http://www.bostreammail.net/ers/polyiblit.html

http://www.greenoak.com/crystal/

http://www.nubi3.com/downloadLE.htm

http://www.karmafx.dk/

http://users.tkk.fi/~ajhuovil/vst.html

http://antti.smartelectronix.com/

http://www.bostreammail.net/ers/ersdrums.html

http://www.izotope.com/products/audio/vinyl/

http://www.linplug.com/Products/FreeAlpha/freealpha.htm

http://www.trippler.net/music/Download/Synth1/synth1.html

http://www.rgcaudio.com/triangle_II.htm

http://www.audiodamage.com/index.php?cPath=2

http://www.camelaudio.com/news.php?nID=105

http://www.ohmforce.com/UseFreeSoftware.do?action=listFreeNonStandalones&productId=6

http://www.ultimatesoundbank.com/demo.html

http://magnus.smartelectronix.com/

http://www.refx.net/?page=!_Claw

http://alex.smartelectronix.com/

http://www.kotkasuniverse.com/paax_index.htm

 

full and free DAW

  • 16 audio tracks
  • 32 Bit floating point audio engine
  • 44.1 to 192 kHz sample rate
  • 3-band parametric EQ &
  • 2 VST insert slots per channel
  • 3 VST master effect slots
  • ASIO low latency audio driver support
  • 4 KRISTAL PlugIn slots

http://www.kreatives.org/kristal/index.php?section=download

 

Full audio editor and mp3 converter

http://audacity.sourceforge.net/

 

remember not all of these are totally free but the owners are only asking for small donations. so why not get them now before some big software company picks them up and slapps on a £100+ ticket

 

you can also register for a free copy of rebirth

http://www.rebirthmuseum.com/


Post edited by owner 10/11/2006 7:34:35 PM
Zero
zeromus Pic13275 Posts
CanadaSW6
Music Style d(-_-)b
10/28/2006 3:52 AM
JD??! Irn Bru?!? Big Tits Castle??!?! yawn yawn yawn Jay, could you possibly be straying from answers which answer frequently asked questions about audio production looking munted yawn
Equinox
jaytranzmit Pic12649 Posts
United Kingdom
10/28/2006 2:08 PM
Well, you've got to be prepared. A little snack inbetween & a tipple..studio basics really smile
Equinox
jaytranzmit Pic12649 Posts
United Kingdom
10/28/2006 2:10 PM
Optical Compression explained -> http://www.focusrite.com/answerbase/article.php?id=176

Equipment resources -> http://www.sonicstate.com/



NoMiS ChaV
smiff220 Pic11243 Posts
Irelandno
Music Style yes
11/16/2006 6:39 PM
A bunch of Fruity tutorials.thumbsup

Fruity Loops 6 Tutorial Vids
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=29 (Showcase of the new FL6 FX plugins) 31mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=28 (How to use the new FL6 mixer) 13mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=30 (Using BeatSlicer) 7.9mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=31 (Deep Inside Sytrus) 10.1mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=27 (How to use DirectWave) 22.2mb


Beginners-
CODE
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=10 (How to use the FL Studio user interface) 14.7mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=7 (How to use the FL Studio stepsequencer) 10.1mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=24 (How to use effects (FX) in FL Studio) 10.9mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=3 (How to use playlist in FL Studio) 12.3mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=21 (How to hook up your midi key- board and record a melody) 9.9mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=26 (How to use the FL Studio pianoroll) 10.9mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=25 (How to use the FL Studio mixer) 21.3mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=20 (How to hook up your MPD16 to FPC and punch in a drumloop) 12.2mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=6 (How to record your guitar in FL Studio) 13.2mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=17 (How to record audio (your voice in this case) in the mixer) 12.6mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=23 (How to use the FL Studio automation) 14.7mb


Advanced-
CODE
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=16 (How to use the FL Studio Vocoder) 15.1mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=12 (Advanced use of the FL Studio pianoroll) 25.7mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=15 (How to use the FL Studio timestretching) 14.3mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=18 (How to use the FL Studio Wave Editor) 9.3mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=4 (How to use the FL Studio as a plugin in Cubase SX3) 11.2mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=14 (How to use the Sytrus softsynth plugin) 14.5mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=5 (How to use FL Studio as a Rewire client) 6.9mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=13 (How to use the FL Studio slicer plugin) 15.9mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=2 (How to use automation clips in FL Studio) 13.8mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=9 (Advanced use of FPC in FL Studio) 12.1mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=11 (How to create and use the FL Studio layers) 10.2mb
http://69.50.201.40/download.php?id=8 (How to use the FL Studio audio and midi loop recording) 16.9mb
Alex Penn
alexpenn Pic10270 Posts
United Kingdom
11/26/2006 10:36 PM

Alex Penn's Fruityloops Bass Tips:

  • Lower all the channels/volumes and raise them to a level where the bass can dominate or loom over the tune. Basically lower everything but the bass.
  • Create two versions of the bass. Play one as normal and play the other with a heavy low end filter on it. You can then have a bubbly bass looming over your bassline. If you want to lower the overpowering bass effect, put a trancegate VST over it set at 1/16 or 1/32 with some subtle delay.
  • If you are familiar with compressors run your bass through one, but if you are not sure use a master mix preset and make sure the gain isn't too far up.
  • I would also recommend EQing your bass. Try lowering the volume, lowering some mid range and releasing more bass frequencies. This can be done straight from the fruity mixer's EQ.
  • Try adding some distortion with Fruity's Blood Overdrive, which is a distortion for digital sounds. You can give your bass an extra punch with this, but make sure the gain is not set too high (or low!)
  • To give your bass more character, open the VSTi 3xOsc and emulate your bassline there. you can quickly add more bass with a pulse Osc or more spike with a square one.
  • If you really want to get your bass heard, clone your bassline twice and pan one left and the other right. put them through the same effect channel, insert Fruity Stereo Enchancer (i think it's called) and use the 'Subtle' preset. Keep both these clones channels filters with a lowpass filter and lower their volumes slighly lower than the original.
  • Some reverb on cloned bass channels is also a good trick..

Hope this helps dudes

beer

Robelstiltskin
rob_b Pic10867 Posts
USAYour nightmares bitch
Music Style Harps and flutes
12/7/2006 10:36 PM
FROM MR. PARKES:



Here are some tips for when you need to use a compression like MP3 on your audio for uploading on the net etc..

Preparing Audio for the Internet with Sound Forge
In addition to video files, I also talked about how to save audio files in the RealAudio, MP3, and Windows Media formats in Chapter 4. But I didn't talk about how to actually process your files before saving them to these formats. Because the RealAudio, MP3, and Windows Media formats all use compression to reduce the size of audio data so that it's easier to download over the Internet, they can affect the sound of your audio. You can compensate for these unwanted changes in quality by following a few simple processing procedures before you convert your files.

Remove DC Offset
As I mentioned in Chapter 8, it's always a good idea to remove any DC offset that may be present in your audio data before doing any processing. Otherwise, you can add unwanted anomalies. To remove DC offset:

1. Select all the data in your audio file by choosing Edit > Select All (or pressing Ctrl + A on your computer keyboard).
2. Choose Process > DC Offset to open the DC Offset dialog box.
3. Choose the Remove DC Offset (Scan Entire Sound File) Preset.
4. Click OK.

Apply Equalization
Equalize your file while keeping in mind that most of the high-end and extreme low-end content might be lost when you save the file to one of the compressed file formats. It may take some experimentation, but cutting the low frequencies (below 60 Hz) and the high frequencies (above 10 kHz) is a good place to start. This helps in reducing any of the anomalies that can occur during the file format compression. To compensate for the frequencies being cut, you can boost some of the low frequencies that are still intact around 200 Hz. You can also boost the mid-range frequencies around 2.5 kHz. This emphasizes the more important content in your audio, such as vocals, if there are any. What's great about Sound Forge is that it accomplishes all of this equalization with one process. Here's how it's done:

1. Select all the data in your audio file by choosing Edit > Select All (or pressing Ctrl + A on your computer keyboard).
2. Choose Process > EQ > Paragraphic to open the Paragraphic EQ dialog box.
3. Activate the Enable Low-Shelf option. Set its frequency to 60 Hz. Then set its gain to -Inf. Doing this cuts out any frequencies below 60 Hz, as I mentioned earlier.
4. Activate the Enable High-Shelf option. Set its frequency to 10,000 Hz. Then set its gain to -Inf. Doing this cuts out any frequencies above 10 kHz, as I mentioned earlier.
5. Set the gain on the first parametric band to +3.0 dB. Then set its Center Frequency to 200 Hz. This boosts the low frequencies around 200 Hz. You can experiment with how much the frequencies are boosted, but I wouldn't go any higher than +6.0 dB. Also, set the Width to 1.0.
6. Set the gain on the second parametric band to +3.0 dB. Then set its Center Frequency to 2,500 Hz. This boosts the mid-range frequencies around 2,500 Hz. You can experiment with how much the frequencies are boosted, but I wouldn't go any higher than +6.0 dB. Also, set the Width to 1.0.
7. Leave all the other parameters set to their defaults.
8. Click the Preview button to audition your file before making any changes. If you hear any clipping or distortion, try lowering the gain on one or both of the parametric bands.
9. Click OK.

Apply Dynamic Processing
In addition to altering the frequency content of your audio, converting to RealAudio, MP3, or Windows Media can reduce the dynamic (amplitude) range, making your audio sound flat or dull. Adding a bit of dynamic processing before conversion gives you some control over your final signal levels, rather than leaving them to chance. To accomplish this, you need to use Sound Forge's Graphic Dynamics function:

1. Select all the data in your audio file by choosing Edit > Select All (or pressing Ctrl + A on your computer keyboard).
2. Choose Effects Dynamics Graphic to open the Graphic Dynamics dialog box.
3. Choose the 2:1 Compression Starting At -18 dB Preset. You can experiment with the Ratio parameter if you want. A good ratio range is between 2:1 and 4:1, but it may vary with some audio material, so you have to use your own judgment. But be careful, because too much dynamic processing can add unwanted artifacts and make your audio sound dull and lifeless.
4. Click the Preview button to audition your file before making any changes. If you hear any clipping or distortion, try lowering the Output Gain parameter.
5. Click OK.

Normalize
The last step is to normalize your audio. As I talked about in Chapter 8, normalization raises the amplitude of an audio signal as high as it can go without causing clipping or distortion. This guarantees that your file uses the maximum amount of digital resolution and amplitude available. It also ensures that you use the highest possible volume when converting your file for the Internet, which helps in masking low-level noise and possible compression artifacts. To accomplish this, use Sound Forge's Normalize function:

1. Select all the data in your audio file by choosing Edit > Select All (or pressing Ctrl + A on your computer keyboard).
2. Choose Process Normalize to open the Normalize dialog box.
3. Choose the Maximize Peak Value Preset.
4. Click the Scan Levels button to find the highest amplitude level in your audio data.
5. Set the Normalize To parameter to anywhere between -0.50 dB and -1 dB. In this case, you don't want to normalize to 0 dB (or 100 percent) because the RealAudio, MP3, and Windows Media conversion processes don't always handle 0 dB signals very well. They can sometimes "choke" on such a high amplitude signal, so it's best to leave a small amount of dynamic room for the conversion process to work its magic.
6. Click the Preview button to audition your file before making any changes. If you hear any clipping or distortion, try lowering the Normalize To parameter.
7. Click OK.


Post edited by owner 12/7/2006 6:45:10 PM

Barry Scott
joeaudio Pic3543 Posts
United KingdomGood As New
Music Style Penny Cleaning
12/14/2006 9:53 PM

Psy Kick Tutorial by Zero

 

An envelope is a general word for a functional bit of a synth which can change a parameter with time with four key values.

ATTACK - defines the time for the parameter to rise from its baseline to the peak (defined by a parameter usually called "amount", "amt", "depth", etc)

DECAY - defines the time for the parameter to fall from its peak to the SUSTAIN value while the note is being held

SUSTAIN - defines the value the parameter will DECAY to while the note is being held.  A setting of zero means the DECAY will decay to the baseline value.

RELEASE - defines the time for the parameter to return to the baseline value after the note is released (key-up on a keyboard).


Now, we have to think about what makes a drum sound.  A drum is just a skin stretched across an empty cylinder.  Like a string, it has a fundamental pitch at which it will vibrate if you perturb it - the tighter the membrane, the higher the pitch.  When we hit it with a hammer, the impact very rapidly stretches the membrane and, likewise, rapidly (and temporarily) increases the fundamental pitch of the drumskin.  As the hammer comes away from the drum, the pitch quickly drops as the membrane relaxes and the stored, elastic energy slowly disipates as the drum vibrates and makes a sound.  We need to recreate this with a synth and an envelope is the perfect way to do it.


Example :

In Cubase (and as a caveat, I've never used cubase, but most people seem to so I'll use it as an example) load up the Monologue synth - it comes free so everyone should have it. It looks like this :

http://www.mkzwo.de/home/images/MKZWO_70/Cubase/Monologue_612x447.jpg


Set "noise" and "osc 2" to zero in the mix section as we'll only use Osc 1.   Forget the LFO, forget the filter, forget the FX section.  Pick a triangle wave in Osc1 leave the coarse and fine pitch adjustments at zero.  At this point, it may be helpful to have a loop play a half-note on-beat where you would normally put a kick drum - set it to a bass-to-subbass note and just let it play over and over again as we build the drum.  You could also just use a keyboard, but since you won't likely hit the key with the same velocity each time it may be trickier to tweak later on.  At any rate, it's good to hear what everything does as we go.  The velocity setting for the note can be whatever is default since we won't change it for the kick.

Set the "MOD SRC" to "MOD ENV" and crank up the DEPTH - we can fuss with the DEPTH value later.   MOD SRC defines what you want to modulate the pitch of Osc1 - in our case, we want to use the envelope, MOD ENV. 

Leave the MOD SRC here at VELOCITY.  This means that the peak value that the filter will rise to will be defined by the velocity.  Since we are using this for pitch information, this is like saying that the harder we hit the key on the keyboard will translate to hitting the drum harder - the drumskin will tighten to a higher tension and we will peak at a higher pitch. 

DEPTH can be cranked up to whatever.  We will, again, fuss with it later.  Say half to start with and you can tweak to your heart's content.  This just gives the range for the softest velocity to the hardest.

ADSR we know about.  For a drum, attack should be zero or very short - we're talking about an impact so the time is very fast.  Sustain to zero, the drumskin will relax to it's basic frequency when we're done hitting it.  Decay - shouldn't be too high, but use your ears.  Too short and you'll get a click, too long and you get a long pyyeeeooooouuuuhhh sound.  Right in the middle of those two is a fat, clean, thud.  I don't have this synth so I can't give you a rough guess, but your ears will tell you.  The depth on the ADSR/Osc1 may be too high or too low and you may still get a noisy or muffled kick noise, but make it as thudding as you can with the decay and then fuss with the DEPTHs to shape the sound later.  Release should be short or nothing.   Put the same settings on the AMP ENV and increase the sustain to about half and release to a bit. 

Bang.  We're done.  Now you can whack on a filter or compressor if you like, or use the filter on the Monologue - do whatever other production magic you want on it, but that's the basics and you should have a totally tuneable base for any psy kick you may want.  Add a bit of noise if you like or try a saw or sine wave (with the filter cutting the highs, probably, and put the MOD ENV on the filter with a small bit of depth, etc, and you can totally sculpt the psy-kick of your dreams.  Full-on commercially awesome.

Alex Penn
alexpenn Pic10270 Posts
United Kingdom
12/28/2006 6:31 AM

TONE ARM CALIBARATION BY ZERO

Ok, to balance the tonearm and set the antiskate it's nice to have a record with an unpressed side - if you don't, no worries, but it helps.

To balance the tonearm, twist the weight out until the needle lifts up, then twist it back until the arm exactly hovers if you leave it horizontal. At this position, twist the dial at the back without moving the weight to set the zero at the top (or anywhere, really, as long as you remember where zero is). Then you can set the weight exactly by turning the weight - when the 1 is where the 0 was at balance, you have 1g on the stylus, etc. Now, when the needle is playing , the tonearm should be horizontal - this is a separate adjustment. If it isn't horizontal, you can raise or lower the pivot by twisting the big dial at the base of the tonearm mount until it's flat.

For the antiskate, this compensates for the lateral/radial pull on the needle when the record is turning. If you have your unpressed vinyl side, this is where you use it. Put the needle on the unpressed side and let the record turn. The tonearm may either drift in to the center or out to the edge of the disc. Adjust the antiskate so that it stays put and doesn't drift. If you have a lot of weight on the stylus your antiskate won't be able to compensate so the best you can do is to run it all the way so that it drifts as little as possible. If you don't have an unpressed side of vinyl, find a record with a good amount of runoff space and a wide track between the runoff groove. Sit the needle on the flat bit between two runoff grooves and do the same drift test. You'll have to be quicker doing it this way as it's easier to have the stylus drift quickly and drop into the groove, but just keep at it and you should be able to get it set well enough. thumbsup

NoMiS ChaV
smiff220 Pic11243 Posts
Irelandno
Music Style yes
4/6/2007 3:03 PM
The above fruityloops video tutorials online, if you dont want to download them all:

Linky

thumbsup
jonny-sauce-pants
piers Pic684 Posts
Irelandahasgra
Music Style curry
7/7/2007 5:15 PM
http://www.northantsmusic.com/Video/videolinks.html


very good mixdown  tutorial (vid)